By: Connie Kwan-Wong
Photo Credits: CKW LUXE
Having heard so much about the baths, beauty, and laid-back vibe of Budapest, I decided to visit and find out more about Europe’s ninth largest city. I’m so glad I did. From its cosmopolitan ambience to its proliferation of UNESCO World Heritage Sites, I found Budapest to be a lively cultural oasis.
The capital of Hungary, the thriving metropolis of Budapest is also the country’s center of industrial and commercial activity. There are actually two parts to the city: Buda and Pest. They are located on either side of the lovely Danube River and are connected by a series of bridges. The city’s beauty is enhanced by its setting, nestled as it is at the foot of the hills of western Hungary where they meet the plains that extend to the east and south. It is also a center of culture and has a vibrant night life.
Budapest can trace its roots all the way back to the Roman Empire. Modern Budapest, however, is a remnant of the Austro-Hungarian empire of the 19th century. It was larger then, and became smaller after WWI. Still, one in five Hungarians live there, over half of Hungary’s students attend school there, and tens of thousands of commuters flock to it daily. Budapest is also the center of Hungary’s tourism industry, which means an abundance of tourists is added regularly to the burgeoning population.
Where We Stayed
I chose to stay at Párisi Udvar Hotel Budapest, a member of Hyatt’s Unbound Collection of hotels. This award-winning architecturally stunning edifice is situated in the heart of the city very close to the Danube. Because of its location, I was able to visit all the spots I was interested in on foot. One of my favorites of its many amenities was the Párisi Passage Café and Bar. As its name suggests, the eatery is located in a passage and is reminiscent of the city’s golden age with its vaulted glass ceiling and Moorish features. There is also a well-equipped gym for starting your day, and a relaxing spa for ending it before enjoying dinner in the hotel or at one of the many excellent restaurants dotted throughout the city.
Where I Ate
Budapest boasts a wealth of restaurants catering to the tastes of most foodies. Babel Budapest was one of my favorites. The Michelin Star restaurant was named The Decanter’s best international restaurant in 2017. One of the many features that makes Babel Budapest stand out is its commitment to Hungarian white and sparkling wines only. In keeping with its commitment to the region, the restaurant sources the best available ingredients from Hungary and the countries that surround it. Sprinkled amid this regionalism are international flavors that keep the food exciting.
Városliget Café and Restaurant was another gastronomic delight I discovered in Budapest. Reminiscent of Budapest’s Belle Époque (the “beautiful era,” which began in the late 19th century and ended with WWI), Városliget Café and Restaurant is near City Park. Whether you feel like dropping in for an aromatic cup of coffee or desire a delicious full-course meal, this enchanting spot will welcome you. Whatever you order, the experience is sure to be made more memorable by the live-music accompaniment provided by guitarists.
I also recommend Zeya Restaurant. Whether you crave seafood, meat, or vegan dishes, this fine dining restaurant will meet your every food need. Its location near Szent István Bazilika, Deák Ferenc Square, and the Danube River couldn’t be more perfect for sensing the soul of the city. The food is superbly prepared and presented by its knowledgeable and friendly staff.
While we are on the topic of food, I want to mention one of the tastiest treats I found in Budapest: chimney cake. It seems wherever you go in the city you can find a kiosk that sells the mouth-watering item. You don’t even have to look for it. Just follow your nose. This street-food favorite is made from flour, sugar, eggs, milk, butter, yeast, and salt. The dough is wrapped around a cylindrical baking spit, rolled in sugar, and cooked over hot coals. It’s the smell of the caramelized sugar that attracts you. The most common toppings are cinnamon, vanilla, cacao and walnut. My favorite was almond.
What We Visited
Budapest City Center
Located on the right bank of the Danube River, the City Center encases Budapest’s most significant sights: Parliament, St. Stephens Basilica, Great Market Hall, the Medieval Jewish Prayer House, the Lutheran Church, and many more. As I strolled along the Danube Promenade I was filled with a strong sense of the city’s cultural history and was impressed with its stunning views.
The Buda Castle
One of the most iconic structures in the City Center is the Buda Castle. Dating back to the 13th century and rebuilt in its current Baroque form in the 18th century, it sits atop Castle Hill. At night the majestic structure glows with a bright gold light that reflects on the dark water of the Danube. Below Castle Hill runs an elaborate system of caves and tunnels that can be explored and toured.
Fisherman’s Bastion
Located near the Buda Castle, Fisherman’s Bastion is one of the most visited sites in Budapest. It is an extraordinary structure made up of Neo-Romanesque lookout terraces with fairy-tale turrets. The original walls were built in the 1700s, but those we see today were erected between 1895 and 1902. Walking around the terraces offers a spectacular panoramic view of the city available nowhere else.
City Park
The largest park in Budapest, City Park, is a beautiful sanctuary near the City Center. Across its nearly 100 acres can be found attractions to please every member of your family or the group you are visiting with. Here are some of the attractions I recommend:
Heroes’ Square
This is a good place to start. Heroes’ Square, a World Heritage Site, commemorates various Hungarian historical figures and is dominated by a 118-foot pillar, called the Millennial Tower. On top of the tower perches the Archangel Gabriel. He is holding the Hungarian crown and cross. I found the combination of the large square, the statues of historical figures, and the impressive tower awe-inspiring.
Vajdahunyad Castle
There is something magical about coming upon a castle on an island in the middle of a park. Even more magical, is that it can only be accessed by bridges, four to be exact. Vajdahunyad Castle is actually a replica of Vajdahunyad Castle in Transylvania, and it houses the largest agricultural museum in Europe.
Széchenyi Bath
Budapest is known for its baths. Because there is a proliferation of natural warm spring water, beneath the city, Budapest has had thermal baths for centuries. There are even Turkish baths along the Danube River that are still functional. One of the largest of Europe’s bath complexes is Széchenyi Bath in City Park. It has 15 indoor pools and three outdoor pools and offers wellness, as well as medical, spa services. You can even go at night.
City Park also offers a zoo; museums; The House of Music Hungary; restaurants; and SportLiget, offering sports fields, gyms, ping-pong tables, and running tracks, among other activities. If you wanted to, you could spend the better part of your Budapest vacation in City Park alone.
The Hungarian National Museum
The Hungarian National Museum contains a plethora of collections, a few of them being, Collection of Attire Photographs, Collection of Landscapes and Cityscapes, The Painting Collection, The Contemporary Art Collection, The Graphic Collection, The Poster Collection, The Furniture Collection, and The Toy Collection. What they all have in common is that they are a piece of the puzzle that constitutes Hungarian history. The collections are housed in an aesthetically pleasing building that I enjoyed walking into and through.
Great Market Hall
When I visit a city I love to see it from several viewpoints. Taking in the culture, eating the food, exploring its nooks and crannies, talking to people, and seeing the sites are part of it. I also like to shop and people watch, as I think most of us do. The Market Hall, a vast indoor market, the largest in Budapest, is the perfect place to do both. Not only do you get to peruse fresh produce, fish, meat, spices, cured meats, and dairy products, and taste authentic Hungarian food alongside fascinating people, you get to do it in a beautiful Neo-Gothic building. I enjoyed the bustle, colors, and aromas, but I do suggest going in the late morning or early afternoon when it isn’t as busy as at other times.
St. Stephen’s Basilica (Szent Istvan Bazilika)
Budapest’s largest church, St. Stephen’s Basilica, is dedicated to St. Stephen, Hungary’s first king. Neoclassical in style, it can fit up to 8,500 people all at once. Its beauty, style, and size are not its only attractions. Throughout the year, the church offers musical concerts three times a week. The Basilica also houses St. Stephen’s mummified right hand, the most sacred artifact in Hungary. There is also a cupola from which you can view the whole city from above, and St. Stephen’s Square has many terraced cafés and bistros for sipping good coffee and more people watching.
The Hungarian State Opera House
Another example of incredible architecture, The Hungarian State Opera House, is built in the Neo-Renaissance style and was completed in 1884. Designed by Miklós Ybl, it was modeled after the Vienna opera house and is home to the State Opera and the State Ballet. The glory of the building’s façade prepares the visitor for the splendor within. The horseshoe-shaped, three-storey auditorium is the crowning glory of the ornate interior. I recommend taking a guided tour of the building to see it in its entirety.
The Shoes on the Danube Promenade
What appear to be shoes randomly kicked off by the Danube River’s edge are actually iron sculptures set into concrete along the embankment. They depict old-fashioned footwear wore by men, women and children in the 1940s. The poignant installment known as “The Shoes on the Danube Promenade” is a memorial to the Hungarian Jews who were shot on the banks of the Danube River between1944 and 1945 by members of the Arrow Cross Party. Film director Can Togay conceptualized the memorial and created it with sculptor Gyula Pauer. It was installed on the Pest bank in 2005. It is a touching reminder of something that should never have happened and must never happen again.
The Jewish Quarter
The interior of Budapest’s District 7 is known as The Jewish Quarter. Settled by Jews in the late 18th century, it became a thriving neighborhood of families and commerce until the winter of 1944 when the Nazis turned it into a ghetto and thousands perished. There is little left of the original culture, but three original synagogues, known as the synagogue triangle, remain as a testament to the past. Today’s Jewish Quarter is the city’s party district. The once-neglected streets and buildings are being rejuvenated and filled with restaurants, shops, bars, and cafés. “Ruin bars,” quirky watering holes flourishing in the courtyards of abandoned pre-war buildings have become all the rage. When you visit the now-fashionable Jewish Quarter, remember to look for the signs of its cultural past.
What I Recommend
Take a Danube River Cruise. Whether you take one during the day or at night, you will be swept away by being on the river and seeing the sights of the city from that vantage point. There are many cruise options, so you are sure to find the right one for you.
The best times to visit Budapest are from March to May and September through November because the temperatures are milder and there are fewer tourists. I went in October.
If you like classical music and opera, you can find them in abundance in Budapest. They can be enjoyed in venues like Budapest Music Center, Erkel Theater, The Hungarian State Opera House, Franz Liszt Music Academy, Béla Bartók National Concert Hall, and more. These venues are known for the quality of their performances and their acoustics.
Budapest is a city where you can sit back, have a coffee, listen to gorgeous music, sample wonderful food, enjoy tasty treats, go for long walks amongst amazing architecture, enjoy the breathtaking scenery, dip your toes in a Turkish bath, cruise along the peaceful Danube River, or explore underground in its warren of caves. This cultured, laid-back city is a joy to explore and experience. There may not be anywhere else quite like it in Europe. I enjoyed my time in Budapest and would love to return to sit in more of its concert halls and listen to more of its amazing music.
